Molly Thompson-Smith Roundup
Molly Thompson-Smith has been cranking lately with some impressive competition results. Here’s a round up of her recent form at the European Championships and the Battle Of Britain Bouldering comp
The European Championships on 3rd and 4th Nov took place in Gémozac, France with Molly aiming for the top prize. A packed auditorium settled down to watch over 350 climbers from across Europe battle it out in two qualification rounds hoping to gain one of the 10 elusive final positions. Molly was scheduled to climb first in the female youth B category giving her rivals the opportunity to see the route and others mistakes. Molly climbed superbly making a difficult route look easy and in the process she sent out a strong message to her rivals that she was going to be in the mix to win the title. The first route ended with only 7 climbers topping out.
Route 2 involved a tough mid section with a testing overhang followed by delicate moves which hadn’t been topped out when it came time to tie in, a focussed Molly with crowd support became the first climber to top both routes and guarantee her place in the final.
Sunday morning saw an early start for Molly, one of only 2 British climbers to make the finals and receiving the loudest cheer from the spectators, every neutral in the auditorium was fully behind the Team Lyon climber.
The final route was proving to be tough with Molly coming out looking cool, calm and relaxed to a deafening noise from the supporting crowd, after breezing through the first 2/3rds of the route the last section saw the dreaded overhang with a nasty volume. Molly again negotiated this and was now 6 holds from victory.
The crowd sensed that something special was about to happen when tragedy struck, Molly going for a dynamic move did not get enough of a grip on the hold, her weight going forward meant she had no base to work from and as the commentator said ‘Oh no Molly is finished’, the final result a very credible 5th.
Although a disappointing end it was an incredible performance by Molly, technically she has no equal in her category but she played a part in one of the closet major championship finals ever with 3 holds separating the top 5. Small comfort for Molly was the fact that the head coaches from France and Austria acknowledged how good she was at this competition and it was not a case of ‘not if’ but ‘when’ she lands a championship title.
Back in the UK the Battle of Britain bouldering competition proved to be exciting. Molly actually won the junior event but was 3rd overall in the senior qualifiers without realising it! She was subsequently asked to take part in the senior final but give up the junior title. Molly is always up for a challenge and agreed.
She flashed 3 of the 4 problems topping the other problem on her 2nd attempt meaning she topped all four in the final, Molly was disappointed with her error on problem 2 which lost her the flash.
She has served notice to the seniors that when she hits 16 she will be a prominent player in both lead and bouldering with some epic battles with Shauna, Leah and Alex likely in the bouldering!
Next stop for Molly is the last EYC in Kranj, Slovenia where she will be going all out to win the competition. Look out for an interview with Molly in the near future.